When I heard there was a Spice Girl ‘in the wild’ while holidaying in Braemar the other week, I swear I was a woman possessed.
When passing every shop, restaurant or cafe in the village, I’d slow down just enough to get a good peek to see if I could spot her.
Geri Halliwell-Horner was in the Scottish Highlands. Why? I have no idea, but she and her husband, Christian, the former team principal for Red Bull Formula 1, were in the area, and I was on a mission to find them.
Our dinner that evening was booked at the neighbouring village Ballater’s Fish Shop restaurant. The sister venue of Braemar’s Fife Arms, where Geri and her hubby were staying. It too is owned by Artfarm – a hospitality and development firm run by Manuela and Iwan Wirth, and is a spectacular spot for a bite to eat.
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I’ve visited a few times since Fish Shop opened in April 2023, and every time it gets better. While the same nautical-inspired modern interior hasn’t changed, with a shoal of wooden fish hanging from the ceiling and portraits of local fishermen still fixed to the walls, it felt different.
The dining room was electric, packed with bodies out for a good time. Even the bar seats were spoken for, although it was sadly apparent that no Spice Girl was dining here. Darn.
Although Royalty and other celebrities have frequented Fish Shop plenty of times, including restaurant critics Tom Parker Bowles and Giles Corden, who happen to visit for lunch the next day.
Welcomed by general manager Jasmine Sherry, recipient of the 2025 MICHELIN Guide Service Award, it felt like it was just yesterday since I last saw her. A kindred spirit, it’s always a pleasure to catch up as she is clued up on the local happenings, including which high-profile chef is catering Braemar Fashion Week’s opening dinner in November.
She led us through the sea of tables to our spot by the window with a view of the whole restaurant. She knows I love to people-watch.
Jasmine explained the blackboard specials and highlighted the chef’s menu –a mixture of her and her husband, head chef Marcus Sherry’s favourites. I wasn’t planning on drinking, but who can resist a Fish Shop Negroni when they see one? (£12)
Featuring gin, a Scottish vermouth, Campari and samphire (which also acted as a garnish), it was well-balanced and an excellent Negroni; we were off to a good start. My
My partner chose a crisp pint as we discussed the likelihood of ordering the chef’s menu.
You may think it a little weird to have a seafood restaurant in the middle of the Cairngorms, OK, it is weird, but head chef Marcus Sherry and his team work tirelessly to source the best produce in Scotland, working with their drivers to secure the freshest quality catch. The seafood, whether fish or shellfish, can also be purchased in the adjoining fishmongers next door. Working symbiotically, you’ll find any species (usually unusual ones at that) in the restaurant in the fishmonger, and vice versa.
The chef’s menu is designed to be shared (£70 per head), and there’s an optional drinks pairing for £55 for those who desire.
It starts with some snacks, their famous Macduff crab crumpet, smoked haddock bhaji with aioli and whipped smoked cod’s roe with tattie scones and parsley salad.
The crumpets are a must-order no matter what menu you’re eating. These buttery beauties come topped with fresh, creamy crab meat and pop into your mouth. The lightly crisp bottom provides a crunchy texture against the fluffy crumpet. The bhaji was cooked perfectly and I couldn’t resist dipping it into the emulsion of olive oil and garlic. Nodding to a Scottish breakfast staple, pairing the tattie scone with the whipped fish spread was clever. It held together well.
Next up was the hand-dived Oban scallop in garlic butter, which came presented on a stand with a plate decorated with pebbles resting atop. Served in the shell for the ultimate presentation, the scallop itself was dreamy. Our knives glided through, although I do hate cutting anything in a shell because it usually never ends well. That said, the garlic butter was just subtle enough to let the sweet scallop stand out on its own.
Tables were turning like nobody’s business as new diners arrived for the later seating. Our booking was 8pm and I was surprised to see so many people continuing to arrive as the night drew on.
I remember during my first visit to Fish Shop I tried the Macduff lobster tagliarini with chilli, garlic and chervil. At the time, I didn’t think there was enough lobster in the dish to warrant its price tag, and so I was hesitant to see if the smaller chef’s menu portion would be lacking in lobster, too. Thankfully, that was not the case. Lobster was shredded throughout the ribbon-like pasta dressed lightly in sauce. Every mouthful was delectable as I twirled the pasta around my fork.
It was at this point that my Negroni dried out. Our server for the night suggested a whisky sour, after I’d hummed and hawed at the menu a little too long. My partner ordered another beer; it was Friday night after all.
Roast Shetland halibut followed. Served with aubergine, whey and roasted tomatoes from the Isle of Wight, the thin slice of fish was cooked excellently. The whey is a
byproduct of the labneh dish they serve and is mixed with cumin and cardamom and added to an aubergine houmous. But the tomatoes? They were some of the best I’ve had. Finished with salt and a little balsamic, I’d eat bowlfuls if they were served as a side.
To conclude the meal, we enjoyed a plum, almond and oat frangipane tart made with fruit from the village of Aboyne, just down the road. The spoonful of crème fraiche cut through the sweet, nutty mixture with its tanginess, ensuring nothing was too sweet, nor too sour.
I couldn’t believe by 10.45pm there were still people eating, drinking and having a splendid time. Some were here to celebrate (a cake made its way to the table made out of a boat at the rear of the restaurant), and I could see groups of friends catching up, couples out for date night, and the odd family, too. It’s clear Fish Shop is booked and busy, and Jasmine tells me this is a regular occurrence.
If I were to describe the restaurant with one word, craftsmanship comes to mind. From the unique, luxurious interior, to the carefully curated menu and dishes that champion Scotland’s larder, to the team who share knowledge in a digestible, unpretentious manner, Fish Shop is doing everything right.
Menu: A celebration of Scotland’s seafood offering with some other excellent options for those who choose to eat from the land. 4/5
Service: Exceptional care and attention to detail. The team are knowledgeable without being overbearing. 4.5/5
Atmosphere: A wonderful setting. Not only is it decorated tastefully, but it is also filled with people enjoying themselves, which always makes dining out more fun. 4.5/5
Price: One of the higher-end dining experiences in the area, but with a respectable price tag given the quality. Their lunch offering is very affordable at two courses for £21.50 or three for £26. 4/5
Food: Carefully crafted dishes that aren’t overly complicated and let the main ingredient do the talking. 8.5/10
Total: 25.5/30
Fish Shop Restaurant and Fishmongers, 3 Netherley Place, Ballater, Aberdeenshire, AB35 5QE
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