Chicken hearts and downtown Tokyo vibes at Glasgow's Mikaku

It was all going so well until the platter of butterflied chicken hearts, skewered right through the centre with a sharp wooden stick arrived at the table.

Before then, at the launch night of Mikaku in Glasgow’s new Robata Grill menu, there had been no stopping us.

The beef fillet glazed with sticky ginger teriyaki disappeared in seconds, a portion of steamed gyoza stacked around a deep bowl of umami-rich dipping sauce was a race for whose chopsticks could snap the fastest, and only the crumbs of the deep-fried cauliflower which had left us questioning if the kitchen had cracked the Colonel’s 11 secret herbs and spices remained.

But these tiny, plump chicken hearts?

The shadow of my formerly vegan self piped up for the first time in months to suggest this may be a step too far.

After one tentative bite to beat the ‘wuss’ allegations, I pushed the plate towards my older brother who made a more valiant effort, but still couldn’t quite hack the foreign texture and knowledge that these bitesize morsels had once been beating furiously.

For anyone braver than us, I’m sure that mirin glaze and seven spice would go down a treat.

And not just in this bushtucker trial-worthy dish, but across the menu as a whole, there’s an undeniably delicious, BBQ-esque smokiness at play thanks to the new Robata element.

Short for robatayaki, which we’re told translates to ‘fireside cooking’, a style that originated in Hokkaido, Japan and was devised by fishermen who took inspiration from traditional tea ceremonies conducted on an open firepit.

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Mikaku’s executive chef Joe Grant is settling in nicely after a few months in the role and has now put the concept to use for his latest menu revamp, aiming to create a late night bar snack offering that holds its own of sitting alongside a bespoke cocktail list full of big, punchy flavours.

For the most part, it works.

Then again, if you name two delicacies that complement each other better than an ice-cold beer and food that’s been scorched to just the right level over an open flame, please tell me because I’d really like to know.

All this while a high-energy soundtrack of the Talking Heads thumps in the background and fashionable waiting staff dart about under fluorescent blue lights and there’s no hiding the fact they’re going full throttle with the would-be downtown Tokyo vibes.

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A few dishes will need time to iron out, but I’m sure that by the time this weekend’s official launch has rolled around the kitchen will have mastered this new flame-fuelled feasting menu.

If you’re also planning to share with a sibling whose appetite knows no bounds?

I’d suggest a second order of that buttery soft A5 Wagyu steak to avoid any arguments.

Mikaku is located at 45 Queen Street in Glasgow.

The new Robata menu will be available seven days a week from 5pm until 11pm.