Better nab a seat quickly for Glasgow's Fallachan Kitchen

The interior of one of Glasgow’s most talked about new restaurants is a little an overturned tin can, with just enough space for its open kitchen, communal dining table and the tiniest of cocktail bars which serves a mean dirty fig martini.

Here, within an industrial arch on the street that leads to SWG3, trains rattle over the distinctive curved ceiling every so often, creating a low rumble that sets the tone for a culinary experience unlike any other in the city.

Diligent Herald Food & Drink readers will recall the news of Craig Grozier’s new venture breaking late last summer as he prepared to lay down roots with a chef's table set up inspired by time spent working across the globe and a passion for ultra-seasonal Scottish produce.

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It’s the final few weeks of their Spring menu as I take my seat at the shared table, and with the doors flung open to let in a light breeze while the sun sets, it feels like we’ve made it just in time to celebrate the likes of Denhead asparagus and rhubarb root before they threaten to disappear for another year.

Of the menu, let it be said that no attempt has been made to fluff up descriptions of ‘yeast cakes’ desserts or ‘sprouted grains’. In fact most of the dishes, on paper, sound downright off-putting.

And while Others may talk the talk when it comes to sustainability, with elements including halibut emulsion and whipped Mangalitza fat, here is someone who is clearly unafraid to roast, deep fry or pulverise every last morsel out of the produce he works with.

Well, we all know that’s where the flavour is, right?

Right, confirms Grozier and his team, who zip about the space as comfortably as if it was their home kitchen, eager to share the backstory of each plate as it’s placed in front of our motley crew of only 12 diners.

A captivated audience, we learn of back garden foraging for cherry blossom, a historic sourdough starter and a lockdown experiment that once saw the chef transform the small space behind his storm doors into a climate-controlled salami chamber.

And that’s before we’ve even thought about pudding.

It’s food geekery at its finest, much to the delight of guests who are encouraged to ask questions, take videos and leave their seats to witness the kitchen action up close between courses.

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With every unexpected flourish, quirky anecdote and spot-on wine pairing the evening reveals the delicious secrets behind Fallachan Kitchen’s burgeoning reputation, until only candlelight remains to illuminate the final bites of Bare Bones chocolate brownie.

Look out for the full story on the Herald website tomorrow, or at the very least take one last piece of advice from this week’s adventure:

If ever there’s a space to be had at the Fallachan table, nab it quickly.

The halibut head really is delicious, I promise.

Fallachan Kitchen is located at Arch 15, Eastvale Place, Glasgow.