Of all the phrases that could be used to describe a top-notch restaurant, bar or café, it’s the ‘hidden gem’ that winds me up the most.
Before anyone delves too deeply into a back catalogue of food and drink features, I’ll hold my hands up and admit, yes, I am guilty of using the term myself from time to time.
But the chronic overuse of those two little words on social media means that they now elicit a sort of visceral reaction deep in the pit of my soul. Especially when coming from yet another TikToker gushing over a busy city centre spot that is in no way ‘hidden’.
There’s an exception to be made for this week’s review, however, following the news that an Edinburgh business has recently been selected as TripAdvisor’s top ‘Hidden Gem’ restaurant in the UK.
Whether you agree with the distinction or not, an award based on a 'high volume of above-and-beyond reviews and opinions from the Tripadvisor community' surely holds a little more weight than any shout-out from a run-of-the-mill food blogger.
And there it is, in a corner unit on Dalry Road that’s lit up like an Edward Hopper painting against the dark of a chilly midweek evening. Locanda de Gusti.
It’s my first time at this long-established Italian restaurant, where chef Rosario Sartore and his wife, Maria, strive to deliver an authentic taste of Naples using artisan ingredients imported from Southern Italy.
We’re greeted so enthusiastically at the door that Gary shoots me a look of mild panic. This translates to something along the lines of ‘have you met this woman before, and should I know who she is too?’.
The answer is no, I haven’t, but it seems that everyone who steps over the threshold here is treated like an old friend who has stopped by for dinner.
The front of house team’s warm energy remains infectious all evening as they squeeze between tightly packed tables carrying plates of seafood and pasta above customers' heads, all the while singing to themselves with gusto or relaying another lot of drinks orders to the bar.
They’re also on the ball with menu suggestions, nudging us towards the seafood dishes which the restaurant is known for and noting that a tempting selection of pasta dishes can be served either as a starter portion or a main course.
The gambero rosso (£28) is up first, with a golf ball-sized serving of fresh Mediterranean prawn tartare perched atop long strands of Scialatielli twisted into a small peak. There’s a generous handful of vesuvian tomatoes stirred through the pasta, which have been given the time they need to break down so that their vibrant flavour becomes one with a light yet punchy prawn bisque.
‘Happy Birthday,’ a larger-than-life waiter quips next as he drops off a serving of polpettone (£11), cut into a triangular slab that really does resemble a slice of celebration cake. Except, instead of sponge, there’s a mix of seasoned ground beef and pork meat, and in place of buttercream, a thick layer of stringy Italian cheese that’s slowly oozing out into a pool of tomato ragu below.
Refined in presentation, it is not: but I’d gladly choose another serving of this savoury meatloaf over a Colin the Caterpillar from Markies any day.
The ‘house special’ of Grigliata (£39), a mixed fish and crustacean medley, is an enormous amount of seafood for one. There’s been minimal fussing with fresh ingredients here, and cooked simply on a charcoal grill, it’s the seabass, tuna steak and plump scallop that are doing the most to impress with just a light dressing of lemon and garlic-infused oil.
This feast from the sea somewhat overshadows a second main course of pan-seared organic Scottish Lamb Chops. It’s a quality piece of meat paired well with buttery chanterelle mushrooms and roasted vegetables, which, anywhere else, might have been the star of the show.
But our server’s advice from earlier had been spot on. The seafood dishes are without a doubt the main attraction at Locanda de Gusti.
Conscious that we’ve a train to catch from Haymarket, desserts are ordered almost as soon as any final scraps of langoustine shell and lamb bone have been cleared.
The Maritozzo (£8) sees an Italian brioche bun stuffed with whipped cream that has just the slightest hint of sweet vanilla, and elsewhere more cream is layered between thin slices of puff pastry for the Napoleon (£8), though the latter has a few extra flourishes of plombir, custard and tart summer berries.
More than any of the dishes we’ve shared tonight, it’s these sweet treats that have me wishing I were under the Italian sun with an espresso in hand rather than rushing for a Scotrail service back to Glasgow.
Reality is sometimes very harsh indeed, but a complimentary lemoncello for the road does help to ease the sting.
On the journey home, we’ll once again return to the evening’s big question.
Can somewhere like Locanda de Gusti, a firm favourite of many Edinburgh locals, which has now been operating at this spot for over a decade, really be classed as a hidden gem?
Rather than risk any scorn from readers, I’ll leave that up to you and the good folks at TripAdvisor to squabble over.
But no matter what you call it, a first introduction to the restaurant's hearty Italian dishes and immensely fun service is guaranteed to leave you feeling as though you’ve uncovered something truly special.
Menu: A mix of seafood, pasta and meaty main courses. Don't skip a side of crusty bread served with incredible olive oil. 4/5
Service: The front of house team is great fun and really makes the experience. 5/5
Atmosphere: A small space with tightly packed tables, even on a weeknight, this place feels lively. 4/5
Price: In line with Edinburgh prices. The portion size of the seafood platter in particular feels fair for the cost, though I later notice we've paid a full £28 for the pasta dish after requesting a starter portion. 3/5
Food: Southern Italian dishes with a real focus on seafood. It's delicious, hearty stuff. 8/10
Total: 24/30
Locanda de Gusti is located at 102 Dalry Road in Edinburgh.
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